The power of the ocean waves is constantly shifting, and researchers determined that many of the bathers were injured in relatively the same time frame, each arriving in the emergency room within hours of each other. During the three-year study, there were no injuries reported on about one-fifth of the days monitored, but one day resulted in 25 rough surf injuries.
Many of the injuries reported happened when bathers turned their backs to exit the water, pointing out the need always to be aware of waves.
Water Conditions
In addition to waves, there are other problems you may encounter at the beach.
Rip currents are particularly dangerous for swimmers. The rip current is a current of water that flows away from the shore and can quickly drag an unwary swimmer far out to sea, beyond their limits for safely reaching shore. It is believed that rip currents account for about 80 percent of lifeguard rescues, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, a United States Department of Commerce agency that studies various aspects of weather, climate and marine life.
A rip current can start at the shoreline and drag a swimmer past the wave break line. The days when strong rip currents are in force are usually busy for lifeguards, and particularly strong days can result in the shutdown of certain beaches.
More unusual, but no less dangerous, is the condition known as a shore break. These are waves that break on the shore, and can arrive unexpectedly to smash down those who weren’t expecting a powerful wave.